The first question I'm asked when I talk
of travelling in Nicaragua is "Is it safe?" I've visited more than 50
countries. It's the only one where I've walked down the street (in
Esteli) with US$1000 in cash in my pocket, changed it on the street
corner and walked off again with not a qualm. (I wouldn't try that in
Managua - or any other capital city.)
There's a brilliant network of local buses, minibuses and collective
taxis. You're on holiday but adjust to local time. Be up for that 6am
bus; it's dusk by 6pm and you want to make the most of the day. It's an
early to bed and early to rise lifestyle. Though you'll find lively fun at discos, often with live music at the weekends.
You can travel from north to south staying in local homes or
community run cabins. Living with a local family is an amazing
experience.
Visit Granada, Lake Cocibolca and Volcan Mombacho but stay away from the
crowds.
UCA Tierra y Agua have rooms for individuals and groups just south of Granada nearer
Nandaime. From there you can
walk and cycle to Mombacho park or catch the bus to explore Granada's
colonial streets and buildings.
In the cooler, mountainous coffee growing regions
UCA Soppeccxa
(Jinotega), UCA San Ramon (near Matagalpa) and UCA Miraflor (near
Esteli) all offer you the chance to stay with coffee farmers and enjoy
the amazing scenery. Each has special features. Miraflor has
cloudforest and orchids. San Ramon a women's papermaking venture.
Soppexxca has just opened a guest house on lake El Dorado. Trek, ride,
swim in waterfall pools, swing in a hammock.
For your beach experience,
El Ostional is the place. 25kms south of San
Juan del Sur is a vast curving expanse of sand and sea. You'll share it
with the occasional fisherman, turtle watcher or young local. Community
Tours co-ordinates the accommodation and activities (
communitytours@yahoo.es); their office is in San Juan.
In Esteli, stay at Hostal Cafe Luz y Luna, a social enterprise offering
an excellent information centre. It's run by an ex volunteer.
http://www.cafeluzyluna.com
Also good is Hotel Meson and the Nicarao; both are run by local families.
Recommendations: for your trip
- Learn some Spanish. The NEST Trust is trying to help communities learn English, but it takes time and elsewhere there are few
speakers of English..
- Travel light. You can buy anything you need there (and that's
better for the economy) and you really don't need much: a change of
clothes, a fleece in the mountains, a headtorch, rechargeable batteries
and a little solar charger, comfortable walking gear, a waterproof
jacket in the rainy seasons, a silk sleeping bag, a swimsuit and an
easy dry towel - and a dictionary?.
- Relax: Nicaragua is not a country for rushing from place to place. Your
experience comes from interacting with people, accepting their culture;
just go with the flow.