view59December 2006

The Nest Trust

Nicaragua English and Sustainable Tourism
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Responsible travel in Nicaragua
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The first question I'm asked when I talk of travelling in Nicaragua is "Is it safe?" I've visited more than 50 countries. It's the only one where I've walked down the street (in Esteli) with US$1000 in cash in my pocket, changed it on the street corner and walked off again with not a qualm. (I wouldn't try that in Managua - or any other capital city.)

There's a brilliant network of local buses, minibuses and collective taxis. You're on holiday but adjust to local time. Be up for that 6am bus; it's dusk by 6pm and you want to make the most of the day. It's an early to bed and early to rise lifestyle. Though you'll find lively fun at discos, often with live music at the weekends.

You can travel from north to south staying in local homes or community run cabins. Living with a local family is an amazing experience.

Visit Granada, Lake Cocibolca and Volcan Mombacho but stay away from the crowds. UCA Tierra y Agua have rooms for individuals and groups just south of Granada nearer Nandaime. From there you can walk and cycle to Mombacho park or catch the bus to explore Granada's colonial streets and buildings.

T&A lake people           T&A pool            T&A fishing

In the cooler, mountainous coffee growing regions UCA Soppeccxa (Jinotega), UCA San Ramon (near Matagalpa) and UCA Miraflor (near Esteli) all offer you the chance to stay with coffee farmers and enjoy the amazing scenery. Each has special features. Miraflor has cloudforest and orchids. San Ramon a women's papermaking venture. Soppexxca has just opened a guest house on lake El Dorado. Trek, ride, swim in waterfall pools, swing in a hammock.

SR waterfall                            SR trees                           SR trees    
For your beach experience, El Ostional is the place. 25kms south of San Juan del Sur is a vast curving expanse of sand and sea. You'll share it with the occasional fisherman, turtle watcher or young local. Community Tours co-ordinates the accommodation and activities (communitytours@yahoo.es); their office is in San Juan. 

Ostional boats           Ostional road           ostional people

In Esteli, stay at Hostal Cafe Luz y Luna, a social enterprise offering an excellent information centre. It's run by an ex volunteer. http://www.cafeluzyluna.com
Also good is Hotel Meson and the Nicarao; both are run by local families.

Recommendations: for your trip
  • Learn some Spanish. The NEST Trust is trying to help communities learn English, but it takes time and elsewhere there are few speakers of English..
  • Travel light. You can buy anything you need there (and that's better for the economy) and you really don't need much: a change of clothes, a fleece in the mountains, a headtorch, rechargeable batteries and a little solar charger, comfortable walking gear, a waterproof jacket in the rainy seasons, a silk sleeping bag, a swimsuit and an easy dry towel - and a dictionary?. 
  • Relax: Nicaragua is not a country for rushing from place to place. Your experience comes from interacting with people, accepting their culture; just go with the flow.